A Few Ways to Select a Tea

This is old style dancong for sure. It’s amazing to me that such a vivid and apparent transformation in the flavor profile is captured as flawlessly as it is here, with so much nuance and clarity between the crisp high notes and the ultra-smooth body.

On the initial sip, a powerful sensation grips the tongue and creates a lively mouthfeel that has rocky minerality to it, but is not metallic. Within a matter of seconds after swallowing the soup, this strong minerality melts away and reveals a beautiful symphony of flavors, all perfectly orchestrated and seemingly emanating out from that rocky minerality.

Maybe that’s what “music from the rock” means – and if so, this is a brilliant example of a rare quality not found in many dancong nowadays. More modern processing techniques are not focused on bringing such a characteristic out, and while they can be good overall, they can also be lacking yan-yun entirely.

The way the mouthfeel builds progressively is beautiful – so many layers of flavor are possible to explore because this tea has such a deep and round body. I get overt undertones of plums, lychee, almonds, and a kind of spice that is reminiscent of toasted coriander seed, plus all kinds of subtle sensations like licorice root and citrus fruits, some of which sparkle on the palate and feel electrifying, and others which weave in and out so softly they are barely detectable, yet so refined once I sense them.

This is glorious. What a rare and complex experience. If you want something special; not only in its flavor profile, but also for the tradition it represents, and the nearly thousand-year-old history it perfectly exemplifies, then this is definitely the right choice!

Like an octopus that can change both the color and texture of its skin, so too does this tea represent a dynamic experience that shifts and flows in ways which seem impossible to capture… yet here we are.

And like Mike Tyson, this Bing Dao has a powerful punch to it – it’s insanely strong and unbridled, drinking this tea makes me feel like there’s a balloon swelling in my brain. I can feel my heart beating behind my eyeballs. This really should come with a warning label – not for the faint of heart, but certainly for those who want to blast off to the moon.

In terms of its overall flavor profile, it’s a bit more introverted and subtle than it is in-your-face, but the evolution of flavors is quite remarkable, and the clarity of the individual flavors is excellent despite their somewhat shy and introverted nature. I might not drink this for its flavor, but I definitely would drink it if I needed to melt a glacier in Antarctica with nothing but my body heat.

The difference between how this tea opens up versus how it finishes is a beautiful thing to witness. The huigan is amazing, it’s planted firmly in the throat and sits there for a very long time. Make sure you sniff the bottom of an empty cup as it cools, especially in the first half of a gong-fu session… it’s sublime. It presents a totally different set of aromatics than what the broth contains.

A whole cake is but a single sample – this tea really is that complex.

Did I mention this thing is a qi monster? This is a completely different realm of sensations and feelings than what most teas are capable of achieving. Bing Dao is known for that, and this particular offering from Tea Hong really hits the spot. Pun intended – I’m tea drunk, in case you can’t tell.

Now, if you’ll excuse me, I need to go sprint run a marathon in the middle of winter.

This is an intricate and delicious tea, when brewed gong-fu style it opens up slowly and its floral qualities really blossom half-way through the session, with the very last steep being perhaps the most potent and having the most clarity between all of the individual layers of flavor. It finishes strong and holds its composure very well right down to the last lingering sensations felt in the aftertaste.

I found this tea to have a powerful mouthfeel and a robust minerality, it grips the palate and has a viscosity like motor oil. It’s thick, with a sappy texture that has many sophisticated layers of flavor which continue to evolve across the session, yet never becoming over-bearing.

It’s strong, but gentle, and takes a couple of steeps to open up before it really starts to build momentum in the session. Once the leaves are awakened, they release a remarkably complex array of fruits and florals that are perfectly contrasted against a backdrop of gentle spices, woods/moss, and that characteristic sparkling minerality that all high-end dancong should have.

The complexity of the citrus notes is captivating – this is not a one-dimensional flavor profile at all. I get some kumquat, tangerine, yuzu, maybe a hint of lime in there… this is such a dynamic tea that brings a ton of flavor at a humble price.

I also get undertones of watermelon, plum paste, and sun-dried figs, all of which harmonize with the tangy and zesty citrus notes to create balance in what is otherwise a citrus-forward flavor profile. The mouthfeel is superb, the finish is strong, and the aftertaste lasts for a very long time.

If you enjoy the Pomelo Flower (“you hua”) cultivar, you should try this.

Karen Ager

We enjoyed this classic oolong with a spicy lunch today. The dry, bumpy nuggets are pungent and pleasant to look at. I used a black clay yixing gaiwan for this selection but didn’t detect much aroma after three shakes of the dry tea in the heated bowl. That all changed the very second the hot water hit it. This tea was generous in releasing its complex baked aroma. Very pleasant. The first steeping was a quick one. Lovely flavor on the front of the palate in into the nose. Earthy with a hint of black peppercorn yet mellow as the name implies. The second steeping I left sitting too long (or so I thought). It was strong but only in the most pleasant way. We did a few more steepings and the nuggets opened up into what look like rolling waves on a black ocean. The texture lets you know you are drinking a substantial tea. I don’t think this is the type of tea that can be steeped all day, though, as it gives off its flavor quickly. On the other hand, I will steep a few more infusions, let them sit longer, and see what surprises await. In my opinion this is a great tea to accompany meals.