A Few Ways to Select a Tea

The fullness, complexity, and vibrancy of this particular dancong are what made me really fall in love with tea. Before it I was just very fond of tea. It really was Milan Xiang, particularly of this quality that totally hooked me to tea. That very night in the mountains in Phoenix, amongst the noise of the local Fenghuang dialect and clinking tableware in a local restaurant with the farmers and producers, I began to question myself, if I could help multinational corporations communicate their brands and products, why couldn’t I make such quality better understood? Why would coffee and wine have their social-economic role so widely accepted above and beyond this no less amazing product? Ironically, one of the projects on hand was helping the International Coffee Organisation to promote coffee in China. That was perhaps the point when tea was elevated in my plan from a side business to my full career. It was when we were still using the Nokia phone and film camera, when information was still passed on through the printed pages and I had to use html to create a webpage. That was 25 years ago. After all these years of learning and trading tea from many regions, Milan Xiang still has its very special place in my heart. It is still my dearest tea. And I still have a lot to do in promoting tea.

I compared this against 2 other GABA oolongs (which were more expensive) and this one was a clear winner.

I don’t like GABA oolongs. They give me headaches. I’ve tried a lot over the years, and for me personally, it’s not a pleasant experience. Most of them taste like dirty socks and get overshadowed by some kind of citrus-acidic funk. Pretty much all of the GABA oolong I’ve had in the past tastes like a fermentation project gone wrong – a miserable failure disguised as a “new processing technique” – but I’m not getting any of that from this specific GABA oolong.

This flavor profile of this oolong makes sense in the larger context of oxygen-deprived processing environments, where reduction chemistry becomes the dominant driving force behind the molecular transformations of leaf constituents, rather than oxidative transformations as guided by polyphenol oxidase & peroxidase. IYKYK.

The characteristic flavor profile of GABA oolongs somehow seems different with Tea Hong’s version. Instead of some dirty-sock, wet-stored pu’er flavor profile, I’m getting something that is reminiscent of orange creamsicles and fresh-baked sourdough bread with some spices dusted over the top of the loaf. There’s some underlying fruitiness that reminds me of goji berries and sweet citrus peel.

This tea showcases itself is a flavor-forward, refined, and nuanced oolong, something that I didn’t think was possible with GABA oolongs. It definitely responds very well to being brewed Western-style rather than gong-fu style.

This tea responds very well to being brewed out slowly. Don’t expect multiple, subtle layers of flavor moving across each other in a focused gong-fu session… expect a flavor-bomb brewed out Western-style. This tea resists turning bitter, and continues to release flavor into the soup for longer than you might expect. Push these leaves until the very end – it won’t turn bitter.

One of the best GABA experiences I’ve had. Thoughtful, refined, and focused where it needs to be.

When I read this comment the first thing that came to my mind was, “gee this person can really feel my tea, and can put this feelings in such poetic words”. Your imaginary processing of the tea is actually an accurate description of the layers of the taste experience. Much more powerful than the technical framework that I have to abide by in writing the taste profile. And a lot more descriptive than I could using words. I am honoured to be able to connect with such a sensitive being on the other side of the planet, through this humble looking batch of dried leaves. Your presence is a blessing. Thank you.

Much obliged for appreciating this tea. And a sincere thank you for such a wonderfully descriptive account of your experience. For me as a merchant, it was a difficult decision whether to offer this variety at the topmost quality or to offer a production that is ample enough to carry that “Fenghuang Cassia” cultivar signature but maintaining a lower price so that a stepping price range for different affordability can be maintained in the Phoenix line. There are already a few items in the collection that are top quality afterall. In the end I did both. For one, this batch really is exceptional, and the next quality down is simply far less mesmerising. It simply feels sinful not to share such a great harvest. So I made a not so wise decision. To carry this batch at an affordable price, I simply lower the profit margin. If this silly effort can make this lesser known variety appreciated by more, it is still worthwhile. True quality should prevail. Maybe this world can be a bit nicer when less dragged by pretence, falsehoods and mediocracies.